Published: 03 August 2018

CTPA Seminar 'Cosmetics Claims, What You Should Know Before Marketing and Advertising Cosmetics'

Claims 2018CTPA will be holding a seminar dedicated to cosmetic claims and advertising on 11 December 2018 at the Royal College of Physicians, London. The 'Cosmetics Claims, What You Should Know Before Marketing and Advertising Cosmetics' seminar will provide delegates with an overview of the legislation in reference to cosmetic claims and advertising, whilst addressing the most recent hot topics (borderline, 'free from' claims, 'hypoallergenic', 'not tested on animals' as well as 'natural' and 'organic') with a special emphasis on digital advertising.

By attending you will receive not only regulatory updates, but the tools to improve your expertise on cosmetic claims to assess the latest challenges and understand the principles of claims substantiation. A case study showing how this works in practice will finally lead into a debate with experts from the regulatory bodies contributing their thoughts.

At the event, CTPA will also be relaunching the CTPA Guide on Advertising Claims with new sections and updated advice for this continuously evolving industry.

Key questions to be tackled at the Seminar

  • How do I assess whether my product is a cosmetic or a medicine?
  • Are there limitations in the Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR) on the claims I can make and on the way I substantiate them?
  • How do I substantiate my claims?
  • How do I use the information from my ingredient supplier and my testing house?
  • Can I make 'free from', 'hypoallergenic', 'not tested on animals', 'natural', 'organic', etc. claims?
  • Are social media posts and videos with my influencers considered advertising? How do I comply with the Advertising Codes?
  • Are consumers' reviews and testimonials considered advertising?
  • What are the global claims challenges that I need to be aware of?
  • How can I best substantiate claims for broadcast advertising?
  • I have developed an amazing technology that delivers a new benefit for the consumers. How can I demonstrate my innovation and make the best claims for it?

Who is it for?                   

This seminar is designed for staff responsible for branding, marketing and advertising (including social media) and assessment and approval of claims for cosmetic products (including packaging, point of sales, online, social media, testimonials, TV, etc.).

Who should attend?     

Staff working in regulatory, R&D, marketing, legal, design and PR, including all functions involved in branding, marketing and advertising (including social media) that assess and approve claims, marketing material and packaging.

 Key areas to be covered:

  • UK, EU & International Regulatory Update
  • Advertising Rules in the Digital Era
  • Borderline Claims
  • 'Free from', Hypoallergenic, Natural & Organic Claims
  • Claims Substantiation, Study Design & Case Study

The day at a glance

An Industry Driven by Innovation
The cosmetics industry is a fast-paced and highly innovative sector that is driven by science. To remain competitive in a changing world, companies need to respond to the changing needs of consumers and facilitate access to innovative products globally. Claims and advertising are a key element for manufacturers to inform consumers of the product's attributes and to make their cosmetics stand out among competitors in order to be able to continue to invest in innovation. 

However, to avoid legal challenges, companies should take into account borderline issues when considering specific functions and/or claims referring to eczema, spots, redness, sensitive teeth, hair growth, etc. CTPA has been working in collaboration with the Medicinal and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) on these topics and has produced guidelines which will be discussed at the seminar.

A 'Fit for Purpose' Regulation
In order to provide a fair and competitive market for companies and consumers, advertising and claims are subject to rules. The European Cosmetic Products Regulation (EU) No. 1223/2009 requires that cosmetic claims do not imply that products have characteristics or functions which they do not have, as well as put an obligation on the Responsible Person to hold relevant substantiation. However, the Regulation does not prescribe how the substantiation should be done. It is up to the Responsible Person to have a substantiation package that takes account of the level of claims and that assesses the level of evidence needed e.g. formula, testing, consumer feedback, etc. This event will provide attendees with an overview of the legislation and further practical advice on how to build a substantiation package. There will be a specific focus on new rules regarding 'free from' claims, 'hypoallergenic', 'not tested on animals' as well as 'natural' and 'organic'.

CTPA will also be relaunching its CTPA Guide to Advertising Claims with new sections and updated advice following the introduction of common criteria on cosmetic claims and the new Commission technical guidance that has a July 2019 implementation date.

An Evolving Advertising World
This seminar will also address the current and upcoming advertising challenges faced by cosmetic companies when engaging with new opportunities from evolving online advertising techniques such as influencer, native and affiliate advertising, as well as social media platforms such as Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, Snapchat and Twitter amongst others. Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) experts will remind attendees of the Advertising Codes and provide guidance on how to apply the rules to all advertising mediums, with a focus on digital.

Marketing & Advertising in Practice and Debate on Future Opportunities
The seminar will close with a case study showing the process of building claims substantiation and a debate with experts on how the industry can address the challenges from the evolving UK advertising landscape, whilst remaining compliant in this fast-moving consumer goods market.

The preliminary programme is available here.  To attend, please complete and return the booking form or contact Julia Hewitt.

Meet the Speakers

Elsa Dietrich, International Relations Manager at Cosmetics Europe 

Elsa Dietrich


Elsa Dietrich owns a Master of Political Sciences/International Relations of the Sorbonne University.

After several years working for the United Nations at the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) and for the cosmetic company Elizabeth Arden, as International Regulatory Affairs Manager, she joined Cosmetics Europe in 2015 as International Relations Manager and works to the regulatory convergence in the world.


Dr Jack Ferguson, Director at Skinnovation Ltd, UK

Jack Ferguson

Jack Ferguson is an independent consultant to the cosmetics industry and is expert in sun care, skin care product development and support required for advertising claims used to promote cosmetic products.

He is a cosmetics consultant to Clearcast that approves television advertisements prior to broadcasting and also consults for the ASA (Advertising Standards Authority).

Jack also provides bespoke formulation development services for sun care and skin care products.

Prior to Skinnovation, Jack worked at senior levels in R&D at Beechams (London), Boots (Nottingham), and R&D Director at Oriflame Cosmetics (Dublin) and has worked in the cosmetics industry for over 30 years.


Dr Chris Flower, Director General at CTPA

Chris Flower

Dr Chris Flower is a Chartered Biologist with MSc and PhD degrees in toxicology. He spent twenty-five years in industrial research and development assessing the safety of cosmetic and toiletry products and has practical experience of both human volunteer studies and the development of in vitro alternatives.

Chris joined CTPA, the UK Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, in 1996, became Director of Science in 2002 and was appointed Director-General of the CTPA in 2003. Under his direction, CTPA embarked upon a communications initiative to provide facts about cosmetics and their ingredients, their safety and use, to a wider audience, creating a public-facing website thefactsabout and engaging directly with a broad range of stakeholders as well as commissioning research into the public understanding of risk and hazard and into the importance of self-esteem. During this time, he has worked closely with the European association, Cosmetics Europe, and has been an active member of many of its committees, including as a member of its Board of Directors, as well as actively promoting international collaboration by cosmetics associations globally.

More recently, Chris has been working with Cosmetics Europe on the topic of claims and their substantiation in the context of the Common Criteria Regulation for cosmetic claims.


Dr Chris Gummer, Director at Cider Solutions Ltd.

Chris Gummer

After 21 years as a senior technologist with Procter & Gamble Research & Development, Chris runs his own consultancy - Cider Solutions Ltd.

He has extensive knowledge in copy claim development and claim substantiation with some of the world's leading consumer brands across an extensive range of product categories. His experience ranges from fundamental research, hands-on development of data and methods, through to copy development and product credentialing. Importantly, he has extensive experience in working with Clearcast and the ASA from the position of an advertiser.



Dr Chris Jones, Manager Borderline Section at MHRA

Chris Jones


Dr Chris Jones has been the manager of the Medicines Borderline Section at the MHRA since early 2014. The Section is responsible for determining the status of all borderline medicinal products, a difficult regulatory area which is frequently subject to challenge.

Chris has a PhD in microbiology and, prior to joining the MHRA, worked at the Food Standards Agency in the area of food innovation, specifically on the regulation and safety assessment of novel food ingredients.



Stewart Long, Chief Executive Officer at Cutest

Stewart Long

Stewart has over 20 years' experience in the beauty and healthcare industry, with particular expertise in product testing and claim substantiation. A biochemist, he started his career at Unilever, researching fundamental aspects of skin function to develop more effective moisturisation and antiaging products.

He then joined Boots, where over a 12 year career, he was responsible for leading claims innovation and new methodology, managing the Product Claims Department and becoming Skincare Scientific Adviser across all Boots brands globally. He developed many novel claims methodologies and worked with internationally recognised dermatologists and other leading scientists to advance the performance of skincare products. He was central to the success Boots enjoyed with the original beauty serum, and was routinely on television, radio and in the newspapers both in the U.K. and globally. 

He joined Cutest after nearly 6 years with the American company Dow Corning, one of the leading ingredients suppliers to the beauty and healthcare market. In this time, he held the roles of Global Leader for Skincare and more recently, Global Leader for Medical Devices. He is a current Council member of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists, holds several patents and has published several scientific papers. His current role is as Chief Executive of Cutest Systems Ltd, one of the longest established CROs specialising in claims and safety testing for personal care, medical device and pharma companies, having been established 34 years ago.


Niamh McGuinness, Head of Copy Clearance, Clearcast

Niamh McGuinness

Niamh is the Head of Copy Clearance at Clearcast where she heads up the copy clearance service, clearing commercials and advising on Video on Demand for the major UK broadcasters, through liaising with agencies, advertisers and broadcasters.    Before moving to work in copy clearance, Niamh worked for 20 years with the Advertising Standards Authority, working in a variety of disciplines, including complaint investigations, copy advice and as Compliance Manager.  Prior to that she worked for a couple of years at the Advertising Standards Authority for Ireland.

Niamh represents Clearcast on both the CAP and BCAP Committees as well as a number of other industry committees and forums.

She was educated in Ireland and is married with two children.


Jamie Mills, Senior Analyst at Global Data

Jamie Mills


Jamie is a Senior Analyst specializing in consumer and innovation insight with particular focus on beauty and personal care.  Having worked at Global Data over the last six years, Jamie's role involves providing strategic analysis and insight into consumer behaviour and its impact on innovation for clients across the FMCG space.

Guy Parker, Chief Executive at ASA

Guy Parker

Guy became Chief Executive of the ASA, the UK regulator of ads in all media, in 2009.  Responsible for executing the ASA's strategy to make UK ads responsible, he oversees all functions of the ASA system. 

From 2013 - 2016, Guy chaired the European Advertising Standards Alliance; he remains a Board and Executive Committee member.  He's also an Executive Committee member of the International Council for Advertising Standards, a member of the Fundraising Regulator's Standards Committee and a member of the UK government's Consumer Protection Partnership Strategic Group. 



Francesca Rapolla, Regulatory Information Officer at CTPA

Francesca Rapolla

Francesca has a Master's Degree in Pharmaceutical Chemistry and Technology, specialising in Cosmetic Science.

Francesca joined CTPA in May 2018 as Regulatory Information Officer. Previously, she worked in Regulatory Affairs and Research & Development for a number of companies, gaining knowledge in product compliance, claims and claims substantiation requirements for the UK and Ireland. This experience included good study design of claims substantiation, interpretation and evaluation of claims substantiation, risk assessment of claims at all advertising levels (pack, online/social media, print, TV). 

At CTPA Francesca helps members understand borderline contexts and best practice for claims and claims substantiation, in addition to being responsible for enquiries on EU Regulations, REACH and Packaging/Packaging Waste.


Joyce Ryan, Consultant at Joyce Ryan Consultancy

Joyce Ryan

Joyce Ryan (CCHEM, MRSC) is a Consultant Research Scientist with over 35 years expertise in Sensory Analysis, Clinical Trials and Statistics.

After 11 years with Colgate Palmolive in Manchester, Joyce Ryan Consultancy was set up in 1989 as an independent service to assist R&D in evaluating new product performance. Today, most requests are specifically for claim support work for brands, contract manufacturers and raw material suppliers, primarily using expert panels and consumer user trials.

Joyce also assists Statistics for Industry delivering training courses on statistical methods for Claim Substantiation and Sensory Testing.


Olivia Santoni, Director Regulatory & International Services at CTPA

Olivia Santoni

Olivia Santoni joined the CTPA in February 2008. She studied Law and has both a Masters Degree in Business Law and a Postgraduate Degree in Health Product Law from the University of Paris Rene Descartes.

She has previously worked in the International Regulatory Department of the French federation for cosmetics, toiletries and perfumery (FEBEA), the clinical trials department of INSERM and on medical devices at the French Health Products Safety Agency now known as ANSM.

In December 2016 she was promoted to Director, Regulatory and International Services at CTPA managing the Regulatory and International team and leads the Association's work on cosmetic claims and borderline issues, is in charge of strategic regulatory affairs & international regulations, as well as REACH and environmental issues.

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