Published: 31 July 2024  (Updated: 01 August 2024)

Sunscreens:  where innovation meets skin and health protection

By Dr. Emma Meredith, Director General, CTPA

As many of us enjoy some of the hottest days of the year so far in the UK, it seems apposite to talk about sun protection.  Those of you who know me well, have read my Manifesto posts and heard me speak at a few events recently, will know how important sun protection is to me.  Not only am I a skin type I-II on the Fitzpatrick Scale – so I burn easily! – but the subject of my PhD, which involved recreating the skin pigment melanin in the laboratory and trying to investigate the pathway of malignant melanomas caused by the damaging effects of the sun, was one reason I answered a job advertisement for CTPA many suns ago!

What about the science?

I am enthralled by the physics of UV filters; by our ever-growing understanding of the skin’s biochemistry; and by the chemistry of our intricate sunscreen formulations!  I am captivated by the innovation that has seen our ability to produce products with increasing levels of protection, while improving the aesthetics to help improve usage, as well as offering extra benefits for the skin - such as daily-use suncare, tinted products, extra skincare ingredients, for example.

What about the stats?

Cancer Research UK (CRUK) provides us with the sobering statistic that non-melanoma skin cancer is the most common type of cancer by far.  Melanoma skin cancer is the fifth most common cancer overall in the UK.  The number of people diagnosed with melanoma in the UK has increased over the last few decades.  The risk of melanoma increases with age, and is therefore more common in older people. However, CRUK also says that compared with most other cancer types, melanoma is also quite common in younger people.  We know that most skin cancers are caused by exposure to the sun, and again CRUK notes that UV light is the main environmental factor that increases the risk of developing melanoma.

From a preventative point of view, I am though heartened that research conducted in 2024 for CTPA by Opinium not only showed that 79% of UK adults class cosmetics and personal care products as important to their lives, but when asked about sunscreens in particular, over four fifths (88%) considered them to be important for the health of their and their family’s skin in providing protection from the sun.

Obviously, sunscreen is just one part of a sun-safe regime, along with seeking out shade, particularly between 11am and 3pm, when the sun is usually at its most intense, and wearing loose-fitting clothing, a wide-brimmed hat when in the sun and a good pair of sunglasses. CTPA is proud to contribute to the public health communication effort with its annual sun protection campaign, where we share with the general public some important information about how to enjoy the sun safely as we enter the warmer season (more about this below!).

 

Why then is the safety of sunscreens sometimes challenged?

Social media ‘advice’?

You may have seen some disturbing social media trends, commonly referred to as the ‘anti-sunscreen movement’, where some influencers are promoting the move away from using sun protection products.  There are claims that sunscreen ingredients are 'more cancerous than the sun'.  These views are gaining traction on Tik Tok and Instagram.  One piece of advice being offered online is to 'build up your melanin to handle the sun'.  Make no mistake, our melanin is amazing – not only helping determine our skin colour, hair colour and eye colour, but yes helping to protect our skin in the sun. BUT an increase in our melanin is our body’s defence mechanism against harmful UV rays.  An increase in our melanin production, melanogenesis, takes time.  During that time our skin is being exposed to the sun and to damage.  Yes, our increase in melanin can result in a tan, but a tan means we have already damaged our skin, with untold long-term consequences.

Myths and misinformation?

Sadly, the efficacy and safety (both for human health and for the environment) of sun protection products and UV filters are sometimes questioned. 

However, the strict safety laws covering cosmetic products means that sunscreens and all of their ingredients must be safe to use.

There are also sometimes articles suggesting that the level of protection labelled on-pack is not correct.  Again, the strict regulatory framework requires any claims (including SPF and UVA protection) must be substantiated with robust evidence.

I feel that the myths surrounding UV filter safety and the suggestion that on-pack protection is not correct undermines consumer confidence in sunscreens and may dissuade consumers to use them at all, which is a serious consequence.

Do we as an industry also need to address what we say and do? 

I would argue that in many ways trust in our products can be eroded by claiming “free from” legal and safe UV filters and other ingredients – and making reef and ocean claims for example.  Should we really be surprised if our consumers don’t know what to think because, as an industry, we are sending very mixed messages?   Personally, I think sun protection should be above commercial gain. 

 

What then can we do?

With the Reuters Institute Digital News Report 2024, noting that there is a trend towards viewing news on social media platforms, especially YouTube, but also TikTok particularly in the younger generation, it is and will continue to be a challenge to refute negative claims about our industry in general but specifically on sunscreens.

Yet, all is not lost!  As an industry, we are committed to educating our consumers on how to use sunscreen and in particular how to protect children from the sun.  Sunscreen manufacturers have their own consumer sun campaigns; the dermatology community is also an important and vocal advocate on the importance of sun protection; additionally, other healthcare providers and charities, including Cancer Research UK, promote sun-safe actions.

I know that sister associations also challenge myths and promote a sensible attitude to the sun, such as the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the US, whose recent campaign urges to trust science not social media!

What’s CTPA’s message?

Within the industry, CTPA’s role is not only to showcase the latest regulation and best practice, but also to show leadership in responsible advertising and claims and making sure acknowledged and standardised test methods for efficacy are adhered to.  Also, as we are seeing more and more skin care and make-up products containing sun protection to help protect against our incidental exposure to the sun, CTPA has a role to play in making sure the added protection in a daily skincare product does not replace the necessary use of primary sun protection products.

This is where CTPA’s own annual campaign contributes: by sharing with the general public some important information about how to enjoy the sun safely as we enter the warmer season; by highlighting educational content on our consumer website www.thefactsabout.co.uk; by publishing new short videos to help consumers understand how to make the most of their products and how to use them properly.

 

Please visit and share our updated landing page on sun protection with key questions answered, including, but not limited to:

  • which level of protection to choose and how to apply your product
  • the critical difference between sun protection products and skincare/make-up products containing sun protection
  • the differences between face and body sunscreens

From this landing page, CTPA is also offering deeper insight into several topics through dedicated pages and infographics on:

  • the different types of sunscreen
  • the different protection levels and how to understand your product’s label
  • how to protect children from the sun
  • what are UV rays and an infographic on our most sun-exposed areas depending on our activities
  • how sunscreens are developed and tested

Let’s share the good and responsible news about our products and staying safe in the sun. 

Have a great summer – sunsafely of course!

 

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