2024 – that was the year that was!

2024 – that was the year that was!  It was a momentous year – a General Election called early, a new Government from a different party for 14 years, challenges domestically and globally.  Throughout it all, CTPA has been working with and for industry.  

At the December Board meeting it is now our practice to share the achievements of Team CTPA.  It is a good discipline to spend some time reviewing what has been accomplished, and to take stock.  What stuck me was that despite the last twelve months seemingly having gone in a flash, it has been an extremely active and successful year.

I am very pleased to share just some of the highlights of 2024 from across the CTPA Team.

Parliamentary Event – CTPA Agenda for Government Launch

I hope you don’t mind me starting with the latest of the year’s successes!

On Tuesday 3 December, I was honoured and proud when CTPA held a breakfast event at the House of Commons, kindly hosted by the Rt Hon Caroline Nokes, MP, to officially launch the CTPA Agenda for Government, supported by new research from Opinium.

100 guests, including MPs, Government representatives, regulators, industry stakeholders and senior business representatives from the cosmetics and personal care sector attended to hear powerful speeches from Caroline Nokes (Conservative), Thierry Cheval (Chair of CTPA), The Lord Fox (Liberal Democrat spokesperson on business and economy) and Chi Onwurah MP (Labour) on the importance of our industry.  I was also pleased to share the key asks from the Agenda for Government.

The pillars of the Agenda for Government: Essentiality; Regulation; Science; Sustainability; and Business, on which the key asks are based, were brought to life by ‘Ambassadors’, drawn from the CTPA Board of Directors and Committees, along with CTPA staff.

The Essentiality of our industry was further demonstrated by the presence of the charity Look Good Feel Better, which our industry has been supporting for many years, and which provides wellbeing workshops for people living with cancer and its debilitating effects.

In addition I was delighted to welcome, to the Science discussion hub, students and representatives from the MSc Cosmetic Science at the UAL – London College of Fashion, which CTPA has been supporting for over 20 years with bursaries and course lectures.  They are the next generation of cosmetic scientists and innovators.

After the speeches, it was an opportunity to open new discussions with MPs and Government representatives. 

I have been thrilled to see the very positive response to the event, in person and via media and social media coverage.

Advocacy

The Agenda for Government event was the culmination of a successful year of CTPA advocating on behalf of our amazing industry. 

This started in February with the launch of the CTPA Manifesto raising the profile of CTPA, through many important meetings and discussions.  The surprise announcement of the early General Election showed CTPA’s agility to move into the next phase, and pre-election engagement with all parties; the re-branding of the Manifesto to the Agenda for Government; post-election engagement with the new Government Secretaries of State and key Ministers – to which I received positive replies acknowledging the importance of the sector; and some wins on the key asks - in particular, I was delighted to receive a reply to my letter to the Department for Business and Trade (DBT) Minister, in which they confirmed the future of the UK Cosmetics Regulation.

CTPA continues its fruitful engagement with Government departments.  This culminated in invitations to participate in two Minister Roundtables on NAMs (Non-animal New Approach Methodologies) and one on Chemicals; and resulted in CTPA having a direct Government request for insight into the impact of EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility).

In addition to advocacy in the UK, CTPA continues its activity at the EU level as a full member of Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care association, and globally – being an active participant at IAC (International Associations Collaboration) and an Observer member of ICCR (International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation).

CTPA also progressed with its DEI strategy, and in November launched the CTPA DEI Hub.

Scientific

CTPA met with Defra officials to present its comprehensive UK REACH ATRm (Alternative Transitional Registration model) public consultation response and received extremely positive feedback that the constructive, solution-focussed response will help build the ATRm and there was enthusiasm to integrate CTPA’s suggestions for guidance and workshops between industry and regulators.

CTPA has taken on the Chair role for the UK national cosmetics committee at the British Standards Institution (BSI) to ensure that UK industry interests are represented in the European and global Standards development process.

Data for all EU-defended ingredients have also been provided to UK authorities through continued close collaboration with Cosmetics Europe and the ingredient consortia.

Successful engagement with SAG-CS (Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety in Consumer Products) on specific scientific issues has unlocked higher permitted ingredient levels on the GB market for several ingredients, which is a success for companies both with a single EU/GB formulation and GB-specific formulations.

In the case of a more conservative scientific opinion from the UK scientific committee than the EU, CTPA worked with industry and the OPSS (Office for Product Safety and Standards) risk managers to secure a regulation with minimal disruption to products on the market.

CTPA collaborated with the Chartered Trading Standards Institute (CTSI) on a public campaign warning consumers against using illegal skin lightening products, buying professional-only UV nail products for home use and illegal teeth whitening products. 

As well as being the first forum of its kind with such broad representation, CTPA’s NAMs seminar in March included a video message from then-Minister Griffith which commended the cosmetics industry for its leadership in alternatives to animal testing and referenced the CTPA Manifesto, outlining that the Government shared these ambitions to move away from animal testing where possible.

CTPA’s active involvement in the International Collaboration on Cosmetic Safety (ICCS) enabled the Association to participate in a panel discussion, sharing the UK vision on the future of NAMs, at the first ICCS global congress.

Regulatory

There was continued promotion of the UK Cosmetics Regulation and ‘Smarter Regulation’ in calls for evidence.

With the announcement of the Product Regulation and Metrology Bill, CTPA not only provided information to members, but also analysis and feedback to OPSS.

An in-depth review of green claims in the UK informed a detailed workshop for members to assess the differences between the UK and EU approaches.

CTPA provided a further training programme on claims in 2024 and worked on guidance on ‘clinically proven’ claims.

Focussing on enforcement, on-going work and a webinar informed contributions to revised enforcement guidance.

CTPA started its work on developing a strategy for digital labelling implementation in the UK.

Sustainability

CTPA continues to lead activity on Take-Back Schemes, progressing towards concerted and industry-wide action.

EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) will have a significant impact for all companies and all sectors.  CTPA is closely following all the developments and keeping members updated on this important topic.  In particular, successes in 2024 include:

• Response to consultations on RAM (Recyclability Assessment Methodology) and feedback on fees
• Engagement with Defra and UK Government on implementation challenges
• Member webinar and advice

CTPA collaborated with the Food and Drinks Federation (FDF) on the UK Deforestation Regulations and became a full member of the Eco Beauty Score.  CTPA submitted responses to consultations on devolved measures to protect the UK internal market.

International

Acting on members’ information that China is a key and important market, CTPA established its China Working Group, with participation from both the UK and with a presence in China.

As mentioned, CTPA is an active participant at ICCR and IAC.

CTPA has continued its input to FTA negotiations and has worked to raise, engage and resolve trade barriers.

CTPA operated at home and with key contacts in Indonesia on the upcoming mandatory halal law, and worked to overcome several challenges, including: documentation in Vietnam; Washington limit on 1 ppm of lead; acceptance of INCI in Iraq.

CTPA supported DBT’s Missions to Europe, Middle East and Mexico and hosted joint events with DBT, including a ‘Meet-the-Buyer’ session.

Communications and Media

In addition to the main and successful advocacy campaign around the CTPA Manifesto and Agenda for Government, including the Parliamentary Breakfast event, this year has seen the consolidation of regular campaigns and touchpoints with the media (e.g. sun protection campaign, Recycle week) alongside consistent efforts to promote CTPA positions and achievements to the media and other stakeholders.  This resulted in increased media presence and social media engagement.

This took place alongside the successful installation of a new, internal, dedicated communications and marketing team, which: looked after communications and membership relations; consolidated members engagement on communications topics; increased CPAAG (Communications and Public Affairs Advisory Group) engagement; provided a new monthly news item for all members on Communications and Media updates; continued our punctual response to sensitive reputational issues (media alerts to members, updates to thefactsabout.co.uk, new members’ factsheets); and worked proactively on new longer-term topics (watch this space!).

Membership Services and Engagement

This year has seen several important initiatives, including looking at how to better ensure CTPA members are aware of all services and resources at their disposal: this includes having introduced a new onboarding programme for new members, alongside regular check-ins during the first two years of membership. Further initiatives are on the map for 2025.

I would like to thank all of the CTPA Team members for their incredible work throughout the year. 

May I also take this opportunity to thank all members for their support this year, both to myself and to the CTPA Team.  We all appreciate the advice and expertise.