Annual Report 2023Leadership Report 3 23 9 27 13 30 20 ScienceRegulatory & International Sustainability Looking Ahead Look Good Feel Better Public Voice of Our Vibrant Industry Contents 4 CTPA Board of Directors 5 Executive Comment 6 View from Thierry Cheval 7 View from Dr Emma Meredith 24 Overarching Strategy for the Sector - Safety 25 Non-Animal Methodologies for Safety Testing - UK/EU Relations Post Brexit – Strategic Co-ordination and Engagement 26 Chemicals and Regulation - Business Regulation - Sustainability - Conclusion 28 New Services for New Needs 29 Enhancing the Experience For Everyone - Big Ambitions for 2024 and Beyond 10 Helping Shape Science-led Policy - Leading the Way on Animal-Free Safety Science - Upcoming Seminar on Non-Animal Methodologies (NAMs) 11 Visualising Cosmetovigilance - Partnering with Dermatologists 12 Empowering Science-based Decisions from End-to-End 14 Questions and New Directions - Training on UK Cosmetics Regulation - Sharing Knowledge with UK Government 15 Streamlining the Platform for Product Notifications - New Resources for Claims and Classifications - The UK Product Safety Review 16 Promoting Industry Provisions in Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) - CTPA’s International Seminar - Sharing Knowledge and Expertise with DBT 17 International Trade Statistics 19 Ongoing Engagement with Embassies - Sharing Insights with International Associations 31 Meeting Members’ Needs 32 Looking Ahead to 2024 33 Supporting Members with Expert Advice 35 CTPA Membership Adds Value to Your Company 37 Risk, Reputation and Representing the Industry’s Voice - A Newly Created Communications and Marketing Team 38 Getting the Most from CTPA Membership 39 Fostering Future Scientists 40 UK Cosmetics Industry in Figures 42 CTPA 2023 Financial Overview 21 Webinars and One-to-Ones - New Guidance on Emerging Issues - Sustainability Summit - 2023 22 Collaboration With Policymakers and Peers - Wipes and Strong Water Stewardship CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 2Leadership Report CTPA calls on the next UK Government to develop a dedicated strategy for the cosmetics and personal care industry and, in doing so, to recognise its essential contribution: to our economy and to our daily lives CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 3Where a director was appointed during the year, the date of appointment is given in brackets. CTPA is supported by an experienced Board of Directors who bring a range of perspectives and expertise from across the industry. CTPA Board of Directors Thierry Cheval Chair, CTPA Managing Director UK & Ireland, L’Oréal UK & Ireland Chris Barron Vice-chair, CTPA General Manager Personal Care UK&I and VP for Deodorants Europe, Unilever UK Dr Gillian Marsh Vice-chair, CTPA Senior Director, Global Product Stewardship, Procter & Gamble Andrew Field Treasurer, CTPA Group Chief Financial Officer, Aspects Beauty Company Ahmed Basa Director of Regulatory Affairs, Northern Europe, Kenvue (Johnson & Johnson) Wendy Brown (21/3/23) UK Country Manager, Kao (UK) Massimiliano (Max) Costantini Chief Executive Officer, Mibelle Group Sam Farmer (12/12/23) Managing Director, Samuel Farmer & Co Sue Fox (20/6/23) President, Estée Lauder Companies UK&I Paul Gaff General Counsel, Chanel Lee Gelderd Managing Director, Karium Parminder Kaur Director Quality, Sustainability, Safety, Regulatory & Claims, No7 Beauty Company (Walgreens Boots Alliance) Dr Amanda Long Executive Director, APAC & EMEA Regulatory Affairs, Avon Cosmetics Julie McManus (5/9/23) Science, Advocacy & Ingredient Governance Director, Health, Hygiene and Nutrition, RB UK Commercial Surender Sharma (12/12/23) Regional Legal Director – Northern Europe Hub, Colgate-Palmolive (UK) Bas Vorsteveld General Manager GBI, Haleon Helen Wilson Beauty R&D Manager, PZ Cussons Beauty Resignations from the Board during 2023 Anna Bartle Vice-chair, CTPA Vice President of Corporate Affairs, Estée Lauder Companies Cristina Bassi Regulatory Director Health UK & Ireland, RB UK Commercial Taylor Gordy Vice President & General Manager Northern Europe, Colgate-Palmolive (UK) Anna Hua Senior Global Communications Manager, Coty UK Debbie Rix General Manager, Kao Consumer Business, Kao (UK) Appointments to the Board since 1 January 2024 Maeve Atkins (26/3/24) Global Communications Director, Coty UK CTPA Leadership Team Dr Emma Meredith Director-General Deborah (Debbie) Hunter Director of Commercial Affairs (Retired 31/12/23) Caroline Rainsford Director of Science Nicholas (Nico) Shaw Núñez Director of Regulation Solicitors Auditors Bankers Norton Rose Fulbright LLP Crowe U.K. LLP Barclays PLC HSBC (UK) PLC At the end of 2023, the CTPA Board of Directors comprised: Leadership Report CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 4CTPA continues to step up its engagement with policy shapers at home and internationally. This is important to ensure that any rules being designed that impact on our sector protect the public and our planet, promote innovation - in everything from sustainable packaging to animal-free safety science - and strengthen the UK’s trading position with Europe and worldwide. Harnessing our rich heritage in science and safety, the UK cosmetics and personal care industry, through CTPA, is contributing to these policy debates at the highest level. We are proud to champion progress with purpose and to safeguard the essential role our products and services play in people’s hygiene, health and wellbeing. Executive Comment Chris Barron Vice-chair, CTPA Dr Gillian Marsh Vice-chair, CTPA Thierry Cheval Chair, CTPA Leadership Report Andrew Field Treasurer, CTPA CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 5It has never been a more important time to have a united and responsible cosmetics industry, and to work together to ensure that our essential industry continues to act to protect the consumer and the environment, whilst creating the conditions for innovation and growth. As Chair it is a privilege to represent the personal care industry and work with the CTPA members who have contributed immensely to the UK’s economy, culture and society. The industry’s value is significant and far-reaching, adding £24.5 billion to the nation’s GDP, and supporting the employment of 550,000 across the nation, in all channels of economic impact in 2022. The CTPA’s membership is extensive, it covers 85% by value of the industry, which includes not only multinational organisations but also Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs), in marketing, packaging, as well as hair and beauty professionals. The sector is highly innovative and successful. That is why consumers’ expectations of companies in our industry continue to rise. Rightly, customers want to see their favourite brands be as innovative in supporting a sustainable future as they are in meeting their essential daily wellbeing needs. CTPA’s role is to steward members through periods of change, it offers excellent technical expertise that enables in-house teams to navigate the evolving scientific and regulatory landscape. This is because whilst the UK’s exit from the EU has concluded, the implications for businesses remain widespread. Costs have increased and companies have had to adapt to new ways of working to place products on the market. Key to members’ concerns is regulatory divergence from the EU’s framework, which means the future of cosmetic ingredients remains to be clarified. The CTPA is the trusted unifying voice of our industry, that is why collaborating and engaging with UK policy makers and Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care association, will be key to future success of the industry. The CTPA will continue to advocate for high regulatory standards which businesses and consumers know and trust, ensuring that the UK remains competitive. The CTPA’s recently published Manifesto, a first of its kind for our sector, calls on the next Government to develop a dedicated strategy for the cosmetics and personal care industry to secure the continued sustainable growth of this essential sector. This strategy should be based on, and maintain, the strict legislative framework already in place and be underpinned by the pillars of Essentiality, Regulation, Science, Sustainability and Business. With the full support of the Board, and a diverse and growing membership behind them, I have every confidence that CTPA will help to create the conditions for our innovative, creative, and essential industry to thrive. View from Thierry Cheval CTPA Chair Leadership Report CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 6I write my Annual Report reflections this year as a buzz is audibly building in the run-up to the General Election. On the airwaves and across social media, all parties are promising progress and championing change. On a personal level, I’m as intrigued as anyone to see how the votes will play out, and what it will mean. As Director-General of CTPA, however, I’m focussed on the momentous changes already in play for our sector, which have been building since Britain exited the EU. CTPA does not engage in party politics. Away from these public debates, CTPA has been engaging in the critical conversations that will influence the future of the cosmetics and personal care industry: the need to protect the bans on animal testing; retaining the existing UK Cosmetics Regulation that upholds the highest standards on safety and sustainability; for Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) with dedicated cosmetics chapters. As plans are formulated on pressing issues such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for packaging and UK REACH, CTPA is privileged to have been at the table since the beginning. Not simply to uphold the principles of these laws, but to challenge on possible issues surrounding safety and sustainability, while also offering workable solutions to policy-makers. For the good of consumers, companies and the environment. Alongside these conversations, CTPA has published the first ever Manifesto for our sector. It brings together our industry’s key asks on topics covering essentiality, regulation, science, sustainability and business. The Manifesto urges the future UK Government, of whatever party, to create a dedicated strategy for our industry, recognising its essential role. You can read more about this in our Looking Ahead feature. View from Dr Emma Meredith Director-General Leadership Report Read the full Manifesto and our key asks on CTPA.ORG.UK/ctpaMANIFESTO2024 WE ASK FOR a dedicated strategy for the cosmetics and personal care industry CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 7With so many changes outside of CTPA, it’s only right that the Association has been making changes within too. I’m incredibly proud of what the team has achieved. In recent months we’ve been reorganising, and welcoming new talent, to ensure we continue to be extremely well-placed to make, and embrace, progress. One person who sadly won’t be a part of that journey, but who has played a pivotal role in getting us to where we are now is Debbie Hunter, former Director of Commercial Affairs at CTPA. Before retiring in December 2023, Debbie was a central character, indeed a driving force, in CTPA’s story for more than four decades; and a trusted colleague and a dear friend of mine for 20 years. As CTPA embarks on this next chapter, here’s to you and your new adventures, Debbie. I know you’ll be cheering on CTPA, and our incredible industry, from the sidelines. Leadership Report Of course progress doesn’t start and end with the policy paperwork. It’s why a huge amount of the CTPA team’s time is also spent downstream; laying down the vital foundations and frameworks needed to facilitate change, along with our members and industry partners. Whether it’s member company masterclasses in UK cosmetics legislation, empowering hundreds of Trading Standards Officers to enforce regulation with confidence or the creation of a Sustainability Design Hub that supports companies to planet-proof their ideas, CTPA continues to create new ways to galvanise progress, right across the regulatory pathway. We also continue to champion change beyond the UK’s borders. For example, sharing the UK’s world-leading work in promoting Non-Animal Methodologies (NAMs) with global neighbours. Meanwhile, our membership of Cosmetics Europe remains vital to maintain strong links with our most valuable trading partner. CTPA Chair, Thierry Cheval, presenting Debbie Hunter with flowers on her retirement from CTPA after 48 years of service. The services CTPA provides are crucial for companies and brands to have a voice in the industry as well as to the Government.* * The ‘Member’s thoughts’ are from a CTPA Membership Services Survey conducted in October 2023 with a representative range of companies in membership CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 8Science We promote science-based decision-making that protects people and our planet and work with the Government to achieve this so that it’s workable for UK companies Caroline Rainsford Director of Science CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 9Next >