< PreviousHelping Shape Science-Led Policy Leading the Way on Animal-Free Safety Science From publishing a formal process for managing CMR substances to developing the Alternative Transitional Registration Model (ATRm) for UK REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals Regulation), the UK Government has continued to make significant strides in shaping the rules that regulate products. CTPA has represented our industry’s perspective at every step. On the Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, Reprotoxic (CMR) process, for example, we highlighted the need for companies to have sufficient time to adjust their formulations and prepare high quality scientific data for review - a recommendation the Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS) incorporated into the finished process. Meanwhile, the Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra’s) published principles on the ATRm, which will be consulted on in the coming year, to complement our industry’s own objectives. Our industry’s ongoing, ground-breaking work into animal-free safety science - also known as Non-Animal Methodologies (NAMs) - has continued to be central to CTPA’s plans. We hosted a practical training workshop for safety assessors, giving them the opportunity to use animal-free data to make robust safety decisions, helping build confidence in non-animal science. Further afield, we presented a poster on CTPA’s work on NAMs at the renowned 12th World Congress on Alternatives and Animal Use in the Life Sciences in Canada: a chance to share the UK’s leading expertise globally. Upcoming Seminar on Non-Animal Methodologies (NAMs) In April 2024 we’ll be bringing together industry, NGOs, UK Government representatives and wider stakeholders for a dedicated seminar on NAMs. By convening key parties with a shared interest in progress, we hope to expedite the UK’s strategy for moving to animal-free science. Science l to r - CTPA’s Caroline Rainsford and Francesca Rapolla presenting the CTPA poster ‘Be Brave to Advance Alternatives’ at the 12 th World Congress in Canada Defending legislated safe ingredients and robust rebuttal of misinformation regarding ingredients is the most important CTPA service for us. CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 10Partnering with DermatologistsVisualising Cosmetovigilance CTPA’s updates and news items on the latest restrictions are very helpful. We continue to work side-by-side with the dermatology community on projects of mutual interest. We hosted a training session for dermatologists on artificial nail systems, which included a practical demonstration on how brands train their professionals to apply the products to clients avoiding skin contact. We kick-started a joint research project in patch-testing clinics on a class of ingredients of current interest to dermatologists, which will help to further our understanding of allergy. Plus, we continue to update our member contacts on a regular basis, ensuring we’re able to quickly direct dermatologists’ questions to the relevant company representative. CTPA’s new cosmetovigilance infographics are designed to help companies understand how to manage reports from consumers about unwanted reactions to products, and the critical role cosmetovigilance plays in supporting consumer safety. Science I think CTPA’s events and webinars on key topics are its most important services. CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 11 Members Only UK REACH Reference Zone NAMs Reference Zone Public Access Joint CTPA/OPSS webinar, ‘Defending Cosmetic Ingredients in the UK - Everything You Need to Know’ CTPA Cosmetovigilance e-learning CTPA Ingredients e-learning Defra policy statement on the ATRm Cosmile Europe website Cosmile Europe app Empowering Science-Based Decisions from End-to-End CTPA’s work to promote science-based decision-making extends through every aspect of our industry - from product formulation, to enforcement and consumer education. For instance, we’ve developed a five-star rated e-learning programme for members, setting out the regulatory requirements for specific ingredients and how to stay on top of changes. As part of our Primary Authority Co-ordinated Partnership, we hosted a webinar for more than 250 Trading Standards Officers to help them to interpret product safety reports and to ask the right questions to companies during inspections. Plus we were delighted to support the launch of Cosmetics Europe’s COSMILE Europe initiative, an app that empowers consumers to navigate the science behind and safety of ingredients in their products. Science It’s very helpful to have responses to specific queries on a one-to-one basis, and CTPA’s handbooks are very helpful guides. CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 12Regulatory & International We’re agile to act on enquiries on regulatory and international issues and to champion our industry’s perspective within an ever-changing context Nico Shaw Núñez Director of Regulation CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 13Questions and New Directions Training on UK Cosmetics Regulation Sharing Knowledge with UK Government From product labelling, to UK legislation, to international trade, the CTPA team has fielded more than 800 incoming enquiries on regulatory and international issues this year. While this is partly a product of our growing member base, it’s also a clear signal of the changeable context in which we operate. As our own team continues to develop, we’re proud to act as an expert sounding board for major multinationals and UK SMEs alike. Helping us to be quick to learn from and respond to their changing priorities. Our always-on service is a valuable two-way learning experience that helps to inform our strategic direction. Post-Brexit, the UK Cosmetics Regulation (UKCR) continues to be one of the most common catalysts for questions, which is why we have developed dedicated training sessions to help provide clarity for companies of all sizes. As part of a continuous programme of information and training, these deconstruct the detail of the framework and offer companies ample opportunities to ask questions. Beyond our membership training programmes, CTPA contributes regular knowledge and expertise to the UK Government, both through participation in various forums and through dedicated training sessions. For instance, we were invited to co-host the Government’s webinar on how businesses can navigate the major European trade event, Cosmoprof, Bologna. Regulatory CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 14Streamlining the Platform for Product NotificationsNew Resources for Claims and Classifications CTPA works closely with the Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS) across a wide range of issues, with the development of the Submit Cosmetic Product Notifications portal (SCPN) a high priority in our work plans this year. With support from member companies, the team reviewed the proposed platform, identifying around 40 ways to streamline portal processes. Working collaboratively, and at speed, almost all were addressed and the final platform was completed in September 2023. This year we’ve co-created two new resources in collaboration with member companies and industry stakeholders, including the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA), the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) and Clearcast. The CTPA Tool for Claim Substantiation sets out best practice through a standardised process. Meanwhile, the CTPA Decision Tree for Borderline Assessment supports companies to classify products through a step-by-step guide and borderline examples, such as medicines and biocides. Regulatory The UK Product Safety Review Depending on its outcome, the UK Product Safety Review could pose significant new challenges for our industry, as well as many other sectors. If sector-specific regulation was eliminated, for example, in favour of a blanket approach it would remove the level playing field currently created by the UKCR. CTPA continues to contribute to the work of OPSS on this important issue. We are advocating for the preservation of UKCR and the principles that underpin this to ensure that consumers can continue to access safe, innovative products that are essential to their daily lives. REACH is an important topic for us as many of our products are being manufactured in the EU. CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 15Sharing Knowledge and Expertise with DBT CTPA’s International Seminar Promoting Industry Provisions in Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) Beyond FTAs, CTPA continues to be a common contributor to events with or for the Department for Business and Trade (DBT). For instance the China Cosmetics Regulatory Workshop, a regular event with the Consulate-General in Shanghai that offers exporters expert updates on Chinese regulation. While invitations to internal roundtables and panel discussions with civil servants help to clarify the challenges companies face, offering an opportunity to put forward the industry’s perspective. CTPA’s two-day International Seminar on 6-7 November 2023 offered audiences the chance to traverse the globe in 48 hours. It was a moment to take stock of some of the markets, including the US, India and China, where wide-scale regulatory change could be coming; or continuing in some cases. Find out more about the key themes and trends here. The CTPA team has been busy exploring what specific provisions can be made for our industry and its products in Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) with our global neighbours. The FTAs with Australia and New Zealand, which came into force in May 2023, highlight how this can work in practice. The former includes an Annex dedicated to cosmetics and toiletries, while the latter has specific provisions for our industry’s products. As part of the UK Government’s advisory groups on trade matters, CTPA is involved in important conversations like this with country partners all over the world, from the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), to Canada, Mexico, India, Switzerland and Korea. Importantly, initiatives like the CPTPP, (the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans Pacific Partnership), which the UK will be joining, show how multiple countries can enter into a mutually beneficial FTA that paves the way for smooth trade and reduces unnecessary bureaucracy for all. As part of our advisory group work, CTPA continues to champion our industry’s requirements as the UK Government prioritises its future negotiation objectives. International “So lovely to have an in-person event since COVID. I gained so much insight from this event in terms of knowledge & information” Regulatory Manager l to r - Nico Shaw Núñez, Johanna Irigaray - CTPA, Dr Amanda Long - Chair CTPA International CommitteeNico Shaw Núñez CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 16AFragrances15%21% B Beauty (Skin/Decorative) 43%44% CHaircare 11%15% DOralcare 5%6% EBath, Deos, Mens & Other19%6% FToilet Soap incl. Liquid Soap7%8% 2019 (£m)2021 (£m)2023 (£m)2020 (£m)2022 (£m) International Trade Statistics Trade Balance The UK’s trade relationship with the world continues the direction seen last year as the industry establishes itself in a new international perspective. Our reliance on imports has increased over the last couple of years, seeing a notable increase in products coming from the EU and our main non-EU trading partners. However, our exports continue to grow, albeit at a slower pace. International UK Trade with the World £6,000 m £5,000 m £4,000 m £3,000 m £2,000 m £1,000 m £0 m -£1,000 m -£2,000 m Imports/Exports (£m) Total Exports3,7283,4913,7073,8773,998 Total Imports4,1183,7793,4364,5415,069 EU Exports2,3362,2642,3522,5112,686 EU Imports 2,7272,4812,1402,9973,287 Trade Balance-390-288271-664-1,071 65% of all imports and 67% of all exports are with the EU, the UK’s main trading region UK Trade by Category With over 40% of all trade, beauty (including skincare and decorative cosmetics) is the strongest category for the UK. The distribution of categories has remained stable over the last few years. Import Export A B D D A C E C E F F B CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 17UK Trading Outside of the EU CountryValue £m% Change v 2022 Exports United States368-2% UAE1185% Australia91-4% China87-13% Saudi Arabia57-44% These five countries make up 18% of all exports, or 55% of exports outside of the EU Imports United States6509% China3998% Canada19150% Switzerland12912% South Korea6424% The average increase of imports from these non-EU countries is 20%. Most notably, UK’s imports from Canada have risen by 50% from 2022. North America All data sourced from www.uktradeinfo.com under the relevant commodity codes of 33 and 34 for finished cosmetic products. Latin America & Caribbean Middle East & North Africa Sub-Saharan Africa 333 96 54 239 42 113 407 29 614 38 16 91 0 177 843 2 Oceania Asia Eastern Europe exc. EU Western Europe exc. EU UK Trading with the World Despite the changes happening in UK trade, the relationships with the different regions remain largely stable. North America, Asia and Middle East continue to remain attractive markets for the UK and, at least in the case of North America and Asia, the UK remains a great market for their products. In fact, South Korean exports increased 24% last year. Market Share Per Region (£m) Total £3,998m £5,069m International EU 2,686 3,287 CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 18 Members Only Cosmetics regulation training Regulatory Handbook for subscribers - UK, EU/ EEA section and International Matters section International Matters Issue Tracker Public Access CTPA’s Consultation Responses International news Trade and Export advice Market Statistics - International Trade CTPA international events and training PSR consultation response CTPA Tool for Claim Substantiation CTPA Decision Tree for Borderline Assessment Ongoing Engagement with Embassies Sharing Insights with International Associations Collaboration with local embassies and trade bodies around the world helps to deliver vital insight and influence for our industry. A good example is CTPA’s work with the UK Embassy in Jakarta on the issue of halal product certification, which is set to take effect in 2026. We are working together to ensure UK companies will be able to test and certify their halal products in the UK, rather than having to request certification from the Indonesian authorities, which could be a lengthy and very costly exercise. Meanwhile, we are excited to be reigniting collaborative discussions with China on Non-Animal Methods (NAMs) and cosmetics safety, thanks to the support of the UK Embassy in China and other key stakeholders within the UK Government and industry. Working with sister trade bodies around the world has continued to prove extremely valuable, including for international contributions to the OPSS Product Safety Review. Importantly, CTPA is a member of Cosmetics Europe and is actively represented in its International Committee, which provides a valuable window into regulatory changes in other regions and the chance to input into planned developments by local governments. When it comes to regulatory issues specifically, being an observer member of the International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR) is invaluable. Travelling to the 2023 ICCR event in Brazil, CTPA benefitted from the chance to discuss cosmetics and safety regulation with regulatory authorities from Brazil, Canada, Chinese Taipei, the European Union, Israel, Japan, Republic of Korea and the United States. Closer to home, CTPA’s own International Committee meets quarterly to discuss key issues, such as responses to live consultations and regulatory changes in different markets. International Ensuring a competitive regulatory framework with minimal EU divergence is most important to me. CTPA Annual Report 2023 _ 19Next >